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  1. #81
    6. Know when to move on. At a certain mileage point expensive cars can become "hot potatoes" due to the costs of maintenance/repairs. You see a lot of $15,000 BMW 7 series for sale with no takers. Because a major engine or transmission failure would nearly total the car.

    #6 for sure. I had bought an Audi new in 2003 and as soon as I hit 50K on the odometer I traded it in on something NOT GERMAN. The coverage provided for the first 50K miles really saved me thousands, yes thousands, of dollars. Fuel pump went out twice, front headlights had to be replaced three times and the sunroof would open of its own accord, especially during driving rain storms. The dealership would always give me a copy of the invoice of what it would've cost me if I hadn't had the coverage and that opened my eyes. As soon as I hit 50K miles I traded it in on a Lexus IS350.

  2. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by SouthernListen View Post
    It's tough to learn all about car buying on your first try. Mercedes and other luxury brands are definitely not for those who hate being raped over repairs and maintenance. Some tips for the future:

    1. prepaid maint. is not a good deal. If you tire of the car or otherwise sell it early, you lose. Even then the discount is $0 vs just having it done at a good independent shop.
    2. as I said before, EVEN WITH CPO, spend $150 or so and have the car inspected. I have caught several duds including a Lexus with bad tranny fluid this way. This would have caught the brakes.
    3. Used cars are currently not a great value, due to the economy (fewer trade ins for a couple of years lowered supply) and often the risk is not worth it.
    4. If a car on a lot seems cheaper than most, it is definitely for a reason. Beware.
    5. High end luxury models (Say S class vs C class) depreciate so much early on that used may be the only smart way to buy, but as they age the costs involved with ownership skyrocket. Be prepared to spend $1500/yr or so on repairs/maint at least unless you get lucky.
    6. Know when to move on. At a certain mileage point expensive cars can become "hot potatoes" due to the costs of maintenance/repairs. You see a lot of $15,000 BMW 7 series for sale with no takers. Because a major engine or transmission failure would nearly total the car.
    7. Look for a used model with an extended warranty someone else already paid for. (transferable of course). I would never own an expensive German car w/o a warranty on the drivetrain. Maybe if it were a manual. A 3 series or something is fine, but not the big boys.
    A buddy of mine, who unfortunately moved to TX, is a mechanic who does a lot of BMW's. He'll get that cheap BMW he suspects has a major issue, and a lot of times it does, but still put about 20 hours into it and parts and turn it around, consistently, for $5-7 grand profit. That's side-work for him and he does it maybe 4-5 times a year. Imagine, $20-28k on top of your salary a year.

    It's how that lug-head takes a couple vacations a year to Mexico
    Have derision, will travel

  3. #83
    Quote Originally Posted by MyLazyHand View Post
    This is a lot of chatter about something I can do in my driveway in 45 minutes.

    How much can they possibly want to switch out some pads? We're talking $25 in parts here.

    On a mercedes i would definately go for factory parts, so while you might be able to find cheapo pads, its not recommended. i dont know if the 320$ includes anything with the rotors, i bet not, but you figure, they mark up the pads, and most dealer labor rates in my area are around 90$ per hour(probably higher in NY or CA), and thats your 320$. German cars always cost more.

  4. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by 233monte View Post
    On a mercedes i would definately go for factory parts, so while you might be able to find cheapo pads, its not recommended. i dont know if the 320$ includes anything with the rotors, i bet not, but you figure, they mark up the pads, and most dealer labor rates in my area are around 90$ per hour(probably higher in NY or CA), and thats your 320$. German cars always cost more.
    Going with the best parts, if you plan on keeping the thing, is the best deal. You're already paying for the labor whether good pads go in or shitty pads go in.

    Might as well go with pads that will last longer.
    Have derision, will travel

  5. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by itpdude View Post
    A buddy of mine, who unfortunately moved to TX, is a mechanic who does a lot of BMW's. He'll get that cheap BMW he suspects has a major issue, and a lot of times it does, but still put about 20 hours into it and parts and turn it around, consistently, for $5-7 grand profit. That's side-work for him and he does it maybe 4-5 times a year. Imagine, $20-28k on top of your salary a year.

    It's how that lug-head takes a couple vacations a year to Mexico
    Yet kids will borrow $80,000 to get a liberal arts degree so they can work at Starbucks after they graduate. I bet a couple years at a trade school would have them on the way to 6 figures a lot quicker.
    Boyfights champion '79-'83

  6. #86
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    PS. You can check OEM parts costs on the internet, as many distributors sell them to the public. You can also find the book rate on hours for most repairs and see if you're getting a good price or not.
    Boyfights champion '79-'83

  7. #87
    [QUOTE=Pembroke36;2739702]I used to read through that site all the time. But there is also a lot of false trends started on there. Nothing worse then a customer who makes a thread, gets 3 responses and refuses to believe anything else.[/QPembroke....


    I am going to need your number...I told the General Manager at Mercedes that I had spoken to an expert and that is was impossible to have that kind of wear in 100 miles and he picked up the phone and said "what's his number? let me talk to him?"

    They said yesterday they needed a good half a day to check everything in the car and when i picked it up they said they had replaced the brake pads and nothing else was wrong.

    There has to be something wrong I insisted, something has to be causing the excessive brake pad wear.

    This is a huge dealership. I am sure you all have been in car dealerships and cant blink without someone asking if you have been helped over and over. They see me, the tides part...they all hide. I yelled at everyone until I found someone who said "yeah, that doesnt sound right to me" instead of "well, I dont know how you drive" That was the sales manager. I eventually ended up in a room with the general manager, the service manager and the sales manager. When I first cornered the general manager he was all defensive and not quite sure why he was suddenly in the middle of a hornets nest....it was kind of funny. Thats why he called the other two in, he didnt want to be the only one getting cursed out. But they finally agreed it wasnt right, and that they cant find any issue now but I am covered if there ever is an issue. It could just be a case of human error when the original measurements were taken. Which is fine, and I said that all along, "JUST DON'T SAY YOU DON'T KNOW HOW I DRIVE" as a catchall to explain it away. Everytime someone said that to me I just went off.

    Thanks again everyone who posted and offered advice.

    Oh and I have a broken tail light (nothing to do with them) that they originally quoted me $600 on, (but I was going to go through insurance but had not called them yet and my deductible is $250), and they are going to do it free and detail my car too.

  8. #88
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    Have 'em check the blinker fluid. They always overlook it.

  9. #89
    [QUOTE=Thedomina;2755755]
    Quote Originally Posted by Pembroke36 View Post
    I used to read through that site all the time. But there is also a lot of false trends started on there. Nothing worse then a customer who makes a thread, gets 3 responses and refuses to believe anything else.[/QPembroke....


    I am going to need your number...I told the General Manager at Mercedes that I had spoken to an expert and that is was impossible to have that kind of wear in 100 miles and he picked up the phone and said "what's his number? let me talk to him?"

    They said yesterday they needed a good half a day to check everything in the car and when i picked it up they said they had replaced the brake pads and nothing else was wrong.

    There has to be something wrong I insisted, something has to be causing the excessive brake pad wear.

    This is a huge dealership. I am sure you all have been in car dealerships and cant blink without someone asking if you have been helped over and over. They see me, the tides part...they all hide. I yelled at everyone until I found someone who said "yeah, that doesnt sound right to me" instead of "well, I dont know how you drive" That was the sales manager. I eventually ended up in a room with the general manager, the service manager and the sales manager. When I first cornered the general manager he was all defensive and not quite sure why he was suddenly in the middle of a hornets nest....it was kind of funny. Thats why he called the other two in, he didnt want to be the only one getting cursed out. But they finally agreed it wasnt right, and that they cant find any issue now but I am covered if there ever is an issue. It could just be a case of human error when the original measurements were taken. Which is fine, and I said that all along, "JUST DON'T SAY YOU DON'T KNOW HOW I DRIVE" as a catchall to explain it away. Everytime someone said that to me I just went off.

    Thanks again everyone who posted and offered advice.

    Oh and I have a broken tail light (nothing to do with them) that they originally quoted me $600 on, (but I was going to go through insurance but had not called them yet and my deductible is $250), and they are going to do it free and detail my car too.

    You need to get a boyfriend who can fix your car and who has a big beer can thick cock.

    Unfortunately I could only fix your car.

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